5 Favourite Things About Estonia
After 5 years of living here, here’s my top 5.
#5 - MYOB Mentality
Mind your own business. You do you and whatnot.
No random person gets in your grill about anything. I don’t expect random chit-chat from strangers about what my plans are for the weekend. I don’t even expect cashiers to say hello to me here. They’re trying to swipe 10 items from left to right and encourage one final ceremonious boop, and I’m trying to get my 10 items and get out of there.
That’s it, we carry on with our lives, and I bloody love it!
Of course this mentality transfers over into more important aspects of life than purchasing a dozen eggs and loaf of bread, but the principle is the same.
People will let you be here, and I like that.
#4 - Love of Nature - Trees Man
In New Zealand, you have civilization and then nature. Nature is in the backyard and it’s pure, unforgiving beauty - no doubt. Estonia’s backyard is literally not as beautiful, but it is beautiful nonetheless.
What is undoubtedly more beautiful here though, is that Estonians are much more whole and bonded with nature, the attitude by default is together, not us and it. Perhaps it comes with many thousands of years of coexistence, a bond and mutual respect of people and the place. I won’t delve into Estonia’s luxurious paganistic history here, but I will say simply that every Estonian loves trees.
I also love trees.
The uproar possible on the Kalamaja Facebook group at the possible downing of a tree is a sight to be seen. Likewise, when a fresh apartment is built in the city, somehow it’s the default that every step must be taken to preserve and protect any existing tree on the property. They get built around trees, trees simply do not make way.
A 500 acre farm in New Zealand is maximised for land area. Here a farm is two fields plowed in the middle of surrounding forest, with the forest left alone. No weird government regulation is forcing this, it is what it is.
I like Trees.
#3 - Hapukoor
My parents, my sister, and a few friends have come to visit me since I’ve been in Estonia. The demand for local food is to be expected. If you go to France, you might want to experience an authentic croissant with coffee for your breakfast. If you go to Germany, you might want to experience bratwurst, even though I guarantee you that 100% of the locals are munching on kebabs in the evening and not bratwurst. Point is it doesn’t matter, you want that local cuisine now don’t you?
In Estonia, there is nothing but borrowed food thanks to the peasant-past and size of the nation. Yes, on the outer edges you can try some herring on black bread with eggs as you take a far too efficient ferry to Saaremaa, or grab a seal pie in Kihnu (have tried - delicious). But let’s be honest here, those are not classics of everyday Estonian cuisine - they’re exceptions.
What is a classic of an everyday Estonian cuisine experience is hapukoor, and good lord it’s delicious in its creamy goodness. Estonia is a nation where the dairy (milk products) section at your local supermarket is three times as big as the dairy section in my home country.
Seriously, New Zealand is the biggest milk exporter in the world, yet any supermarket in Estonia has a 3x sized dairy section, and it’s a sight to be seen. They definitely know their dairy here and how to make it delicious.
In New Zealand, you get one version of sour cream and that’s it. In Estonia, not only do you get the superior hapukoor (sourcream), but no matter if you enter a supermarket or corner store, you get many versions of it. There’s 20% thickness, for your dips. There’s 10% thickness for your salads. Then of course is your favourite brand, and even some places selling 30% (yum)!
Hapukoor is versatile.
Unexpected guests show up for a barbecue? Chop 2 tomatoes, 1 cucumber, 1 onion and mix. Season with salt and pepper, and add a generous lash of hapukoor and bam, you have the perfect summer salad.
You’ve roasted some meat and vege but can’t be bothered with gravy? Actually, it seems like you’re in a country that doesn’t understand gravy… Give everyone some hapukoor, problem solved, and solved well.
Hell, even my good mate Kenny who makes a mean curry swears by hapukoor, and uses it to help thicken out his base sauces and give them depth. If a guy who eats curry with his hands (yea that’s authentic) loves and uses it, you know that hapukoor is legit, and is universally loved.
Inspired by my Mexican friend Felix who said he’d die with his own recipe, I dabbled to come up with a party dip recipe of my own. It’s become a fan favourite with my crew, yet another use for hapukoor. I believe it makes the crowd happy cause the chillies bite, yet the hapukoor soothes, so once you’ve had a taste of course you want more, and here it is for the masses:
In a serving bowl:
- 500g packet of 20% hapukoor
- Removing the seeds, add 3 red chilies, finely chopped
- 3 spoons Habanero hot chili sauce (or equivalent)
- ½ a lime’s juice
- Salt ‘n’ pepper to taste
- Put in fridge for 1-4 hours before serving.
- When guests arrive, serve with the classics in 5-8cm lengths (cucumber/carrot/bell pepper/chips/etc), and watch the dip disappear.
#2 - Progressive tech sector.
To save everyone yet another generic few paragraphs you could easily Google on how and why Estonia is a world leader in tech, I will cut things a little differently, with a long-winded personal analogy here instead - bear with me.
When I first settled in Tallinn, I remember being more than a little stunned at the sheer quantity of cranes about for building projects - it almost appeared to my eyes as though there were more than Christchurch, the same-sized city I’d just migrated from during the heart of its *rebuild phase. I remember Christchurch topping the so-called ‘Crane index’ with 31 while I was living there.
I couldn’t tell you how many cranes there were circa 2016 Tallinn, or how many there are now. But I can for sure say it’s a truly fast changing city. New businesses, apartment blocks, pubs, cafes and restaurants - all popping up left, right and centre. For the locals reading - remember how just a few years ago Noblessner didn’t exist and Telliskivi quarter had only a few spots? I was ecstatic when I saw the neon sign go up on what is now Hill ‘n’ Hill on my daily stroll to work. Just one recent example of something good from nothing.
Tallinn has existed as a city since medieval times, yet the rate of change and growth is, well, super progressive - seemingly more so than a city that literally needed to be built from the ground up. And my analogy is complete.
The tech sector in Estonia, like the city of Tallinn, is absolutely booming. It’s a joy to be around. It’s exciting and invigorating to be involved with and watch new startups popup - even better succeed.
Such a well-firing tech hub desperately needs workers, and with that blooms a vibrant expats community I also love. I’ve been lucky enough to make friends from all over the world, and all I had to do was hang around the place. I don’t believe the community would be as strong here without the booming tech sector, so thanks to all you smart engineers & grafters out there making it happen.
*I can’t possibly write enough to sensitively nor appropriately cover the back story here, but you can see more if you need.
#1 - Cold at first, forever warm.
Heavily related to point #5, is this my favourite reason for being here.
100% Estonians seem cold, often smile-less creatures - but that’s a crude stereotype, and typically also an observation of initial interactions at that. But I mean, why does that even matter? Surely what’s more important is how Estonians hold themselves long term right?
My experience is that 100% of Estonians are sweet and helpful, but as a bonus once you become friends they will then reveal themselves for who they purely are. GC’s I say.
Speaking as a lad here; if you chill out with your girlfriend’s mates and forget time, and after a few hours realise that you’ve got no idea where your girlfriend is - that’s probably a good sign the future is bright.
When you’re good mates with your girlfriend’s childhood best friends then life is good, time to throw some more snags on the barbie, crack a cold one and let the good times float on.
Picture unrelated.